Macau Celebrates 10th Anniversary of Handover

At the stroke of midnight on 19 December 1999, tiny Macau – a one hour's jet foil ride from Hong Kong – returned to Chinese administration following more than 400 years as a Portuguese overseas territory. It brought to a close Europe's colonial adventure in Asia. Portugal was the first – and the last – European country to have an outpost in the Far East.

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The heads of state of both countries attended a lavish handover ceremony reminiscent of a similar ceremony held two and one-half years earlier when Britain handed Hong Kong back to China. Just minutes before 12, the Portuguese flag was lowered for the last time to the strains of Heroes of the Sea. The Chinese flag was hoisted moments later as a band played March of the Volunteers.
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This weekend will see a series of events – both public and private – to celebrate the 10th anniversary of this historic occasion, culminating Sunday night when a fireworks extravaganza will light up the skies over Macau. The 25-minute show – which will get underway at 9 pm – will be the largest pyrotechnic display ever to take place in the city.
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Massive volleys of rockets will be launched simultaneously from seven locations: the Nobre de Carvalho Bridge, a site between the Nobre de Carvalho Bridge and Macau Tower, a site in front of MGM Grand, and four barges located on both sides of the Nobre de Carvalho Bridge. Sound systems at the Avenida Panorâmica do Lago Nam Van, the park between Avenida de Sagres and Nobre de Carvalho Bridge (next to Wynn Resort), Avenida Dr. Sun Yat Sen (in front of One Central), Avenida Dr. Sun Yat Sen (facing Nam Van Lake) and Avenida dos Jardins do Oceano in Taipa will broadcast a stirring musical score. Spectators can also tune in to Radio Macau (FM100.7) to listen to the soundtrack.
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Panda Fireworks of Hunan province was awarded the contract to put on the display. It was also responsible for the fireworks displays at the 2008 Beijing Olympics and the 60th anniversary of the founding of the People's Republic of China in Beijing earlier this year.

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Copyright: Michael Taylor
Pictured: fireworks light up the skies over Macau's Outer Harbour against the city's spectacular skyline.
Photo Credit: Julius Santos

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Upswing in Thailand Golf Arrivals

A leading Southeast Asian golf tour operator has reported a 23% increase in turnover for the 12-month period ending last month. The boost in golf holiday traffic runs counter to the largely sluggish demand in global tourism. It also belies the negative travel perceptions prompted by Thailand's ongoing political unrest.

Bangkok-based Golfasian has expanded its headquarters in the Thai capital and established satellite operations in the Thai cities of Hua Hin, Pattaya, Phuket, and Chiang Mai. It has also founded beachheads in Saigon and Hanoi, Vietnam; Siem Reap, Cambodia; and Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

"This expansion will [not only] further enhance the company's service reputation and market-leading position with Asian golfers and travel agents, but also with golfers and our new partners in North America and Europe," says Mark Siegel, managing director at Golfasian. >>>

Most companies in the region were complaining about drops in arrivals. Many had cut their marketing expenditures. Golfasian, instead, actually increased its spending. “By reaching out to overseas agents and golfing clients, we've been able to convince them of the tremendous value of our golf tours, especially multi-destination tours and those which combine golf and cultural travel,” Siegel says. He believes that Golfasian's growth over the last 12 months has resulted in part from a major marketing push in Australia, Canada, and the United States. It was launched in cooperation with the Tourism Authority of Thailand. Both Australia and North America had been essentially untapped by Southeast Asian golf tour operators until now.

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Golfers in Australia, Canada, Europe, and the United States have long been aware that golf course development was booming in the Far East. What's they weren't aware of was the other attractions that the region had to offer. “They're only now realizing just how good the golf courses really are here in Asia, how high the standard of resort accommodation is, and how affordable they both are by Western standards," Siegel says.

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Pictured: Black Mountain Masters

Photo Credit: Golfasian

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Travel Industry Responds to Global Warming

A worldwide campaign to help the travel industry respond to climate change, reduce its carbon footprint, and move toward a Green Economy was launched Monday at the Copenhagen Climate Summit. Called Live the Deal, it represents a new commitment to confronting the vexing issue of global warming. “The targets and mitigation actions that countries develop and negotiate through this process will be a new base for travel industry action,” says green tourism campaigner Geoffrey Lipman, assistant secretary general, United Nations World Travel Organization (UNWTO).

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“What we are providing is a very simple way to get behind the evolving government initiatives, to keep pace with changing patterns, and to demonstrate that our sector is acting, not simply talking. We should not be ashamed to promote the growth of smart travel – clean, green, ethical, and quality. It’s the lifeblood of trade, commerce, and human connection.” Developed with the support of the UNTWO, Live the Deal follows the Seal the Deal pattern established at the conference. It is “the kind of link between global policymaking and responsible tourism action that we are looking to inspire and encourage,” says Taleb Rifai, secretary general, UNWTO.

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“Our sector fuels the economy, creates jobs, and is one of the biggest development opportunities for the world's poorest countries – and it can be a leader in the transformation to a green economy,” he adds. The campaign will be underpinned by a simple carbon calculation tool that allows easy correlation with government targets and implementation measures as well as a Think Tank and Annual Innovations and Investment Summit, which will be held in Abu Dhabi. The initiative will be promoted by a multimedia video "We can take this Climate Change" from platinum album songwriter and singer Alston Koch, which will be launched around the world next year.

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“This initiative is timely, welcome, and makes an important commitment to the vital process of culture change,” says Greg Duffell, CEO, the Pacific Asia Travel Association. “Our industry must recognize its responsibilities and make a substantive contribution to carbon reduction. We welcome the objectives set by Greenearth.Travel, and we will be encouraging all our members to fully support this initiative.”

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Photo Credit: VisitDenmark

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Your Favourite Travel Blog Has Just Got Better!

Up less than two months, the Accidental Travel Writer is now an affiliate of Zuji Travel Hong Kong, voted by readers of TTG travel magazines as the Asia Pacific's Best On Line Travel Agent for five years running. As a result of this exciting development, you can now book flights on more than 400 airlines, reserve rooms at more than 77,000 hotels, purchase travel insurance, hire cars, and arrange packaged tours through this portal.

In a related development, the Accidental Travel Writer has become an affiliate of US-based gtahotels.com, an on-line travel distributor specializing in discounted hotel bookings worldwide. Covering more than 90,000 hotels in more than 11,000 cities in more than 178 countries across Africa, Asia, Canada, Europe, Latin America, the Middle East, the United States – and the entire Pacific Rim – the site offers a Best Rate Guarantee. If up find exactly the same deal for less, it will match the other price and and refund you 100% of the difference.



As reported last week, the Accidental Travel Writer has also entered into a co-branding partnership with Bangkok-based iDO24. With a very user friendly booking engine, the site offers the largest inventory of hotel rooms – more than 2,500 properties! - in the Land of Smiles. With the click of a mouse, you can access data on hotels and resorts all over the country. The room rates shown are net, and there are no hidden costs or surprises.

There have been other developments, as well. And there will be more in the days to come. But we won't bore you with the details. Why not scroll down and explore the site? And . . . have a great time!

Photo Credit: Mandarin Oriental, Chiang Mai, Thailand
Copyright: Michael Taylor

Mongolian Odyssey

“As a long time American expatriate and former foreign correspondent, I have led a very nomadic life. But while spending much time in Asia, the thought of visiting Mongolia, that legendary home of the world's nomads, had never occurred to me." Thus begins Carl Robinson in the preface of his just released travel guide, Mongolia, Nomad Empire of Eternal Blue Sky.
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With a a diverse history, a rich culture, and some of the world's most hospitable people, Mongolia has grassy steppes, snow-capped mountains, forested ranges, and deserts stretching from China to Russia. A land of constant surprises, it was the first outpost in the Soviet Empire. Its most famous – or infamous – native son was Genghis Khan.
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Hong Kong-based travel publisher Odyssey Books and Guides has launched the book to celebrate its 30th anniversary. Through it, Robinson takes readers on a personal journey around this vast nation of 3 million people. Traveling aboard the Trans-Mongolian Railway from Beijing, he explores the capital of Ulannbaatar and then travels clockwise around the entire country. Many of the destinations mentioned in the book are not found on standard tour itineraries. More than a travel guide, the book is lavishly illustrated with 250 colour photographs and 14 maps. There are topical essays on geography, transport, religion, and history.
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The book was officially launched last week in the art deco Library of the China Club in Hong Kong. Author Carl Robinson gave a brief introduction to the book and autographed copies. Man about town David Tang addressed the gathering in his posh British accent. And Mongolian pop idol Ganzorig Battsooj serenaded the crowd with Mongolian style throat singing accompanied by the horse fiddle.
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Odyssey's first tome was published in 1979. More than 100 guides - from the Silk Road to the three Gorges to the Yangtze River – have now been published.
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Photo Credit: Odyssy Books and Guides
Copyright: Michael Taylor
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Malaysian Tourism Arrivals Up 25%

Known for its sandy beaches, world class golf courses, mega shopping malls, thriving street markets, colonial hill stations, and yummy cuisine, multicultural Malaysia registered one of the region's highest increases in international visitors in September, according to figures released Wednesday by the Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA). The strong 25% growth in arrivals reflects the country's growing popularity as a tourist destination.

Thailand also had a surge in tourism arrivals, helping to boost the overall growth rate in Southeast Asia, whose overall arrivals were up 14%. Arrivals in Australia and New Zealand were both up 9 percent. Hawaii was up 8%. Overall figures for the 41 countries constituting the Asian Pacific, however, were not so sanguine, with a mere 0.7% year-on-year increase in September. Growth for the first nine months of 2009 dropped by 5%. International visitor arrivals in Northeast Asia were down by 2% in September, together with the Americas, which were down 3%, and South Asia, down 1%, offsetting the positive growth seen in Southeast Asia and the Pacific.

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Foreign inbound numbers for China were down 4 percent; for Japan, they were down 16%, depressing growth in Northeast Asia, in spite of positive results from Hong Kong, which was up 3%, Macau, up 4 %, Taiwan, up 11%, and South Korea, up16%. The 1% decline in arrivals in South Asia was largely driven by the 4% fall in international arrivals in India. Tourism demand in Sri Lanka, on the other hand, continued to improve, recording a 29% increase for the month. According to Kris Lim, associate director of PATA’s Strategic Intelligence Centre (SIC), 2009 is proving to be one of the worst in many years for many Asia Pacific destinations.

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“The full-year contraction in arrival numbers could be as much as 5%,” she says. “This means the region could end the year with some 17 million fewer visitors this year as compared to the 377 million recorded in 2008.” According to the International Monetary Fund, the global economy is expects to expand by 3% next year – but faster growth is expected for the Asia Pacific region at about double the global growth rate. “We have lost two years of growth,” Lim says. “The prospects for 2010 appear promising, but it needs to be stressed that there is no quick fix for the travel and tourism industry. All stakeholders must continue to work together to lead the industry out of the crisis.”

Pictured: Perhentian Island, Malaysia
Photo Credit: Tourism Malaysia
Copyright: Michael Taylor

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How to Match Beijing Food with Fine WIne

Before language reforms, China's capital, Beijing, was spelled Peking in English. Interestingly, the city's signature dish, Peking duck, is still rendered in the traditional way on most restaurant menus. But what is not widely known is that the dish did not originate in Beijing. Its origins are in Shandong province, home to one of China's legendary Eight Great Cuisines. Ironically, the cooking styles of neither Beijing, the nation's capital, nor Shanghai, its largest city, are counted amongst the country's best.



Beijing food is based largely on Shandong cuisine because many chefs from that province moved to the city and opened restaurants there. During the Qing Dynasty, meanwhile, China was ruled by the Manchus. Because they made Beijing their capital, they left an indelible imprint on the city, and this is nowhere more noticeable than in its food. But other ethnicities have had an impact on the city's culinary style, as well. “Beijing has been the Chinese capital as well as the centre of economics and culture for more than 300 years," says Jason Shi, resident sommelier at the China World Hotel in Beijing. “Beijing was the capital of he Liao, Jin, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, and its cuisine also integrates the cooking techniques of the Han, Manchu, Mongolian, and Hui ethnic groups, absorbing key local dishes from all over the country.”

Beijing food can be divided into two basic types: imperial court and official. “They both stress light and tender flavours, but imperial court food pays particular attention to beautiful presentation and the use rare ingredients,” Shi says. “Official food developed from the household food of the aristocrats and imperial officials. Dishes prepared by Beijing chefs are soft, crisp, fresh, and tender.”



Unlike Sichuanese cuisine, which can be difficult to pair with fine wines, with Beijing food, it's a relative piece of cake. “Beijing cuisine is often salty, with heavy sauces, heavy oils, and deep flavour,” says Jack Lin, Chinese executive chef at The Ritz-Carlton Beijing, Financial Street, Beijing. “The cooking ingredients consist mainly of beef, mutton, all kinds of fresh water fish, and shrimp. Side dishes mainly consist of vegetables, fruits, grains, and noodles. The main cooking methods are deep frying, braising, and stewing. Miso sauce and soy sauce are also often used.”

What to Drink with What

These food and wine combinations were suggested by Jack Lin, Chinese executive chef at the Ritz-Carlton, Beijing, Financial Street: Grilled lamb chop with condiments - Mao Tai 38° or Chivas, 18 years old. Braised sea cucumber with Peking onions – Hua Diao 18 years or Martel X.O.

These food and wine combinations were suggested by the Hong Kong Tourism Board: Mutton Hot Pot – Cabernet Sauvignon (red). Peking Duck – Shiraz or Pinot Noir (red). Peking Roasted Meat – Shiraz or Malbec (red). Pork with Pickled Cabbage – Chardonnay (white). .
Pictured: Peking duck, a perrenial favourite at the Ritz-Carlton, Beijing, Financial Street
Photo Credit: Ritz-Carlton Beijing, Financial Street
Copyright: Michael Taylor
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Thailand: Book on Line and Save!

The Accidental Travel Writer has partnered with an on-line hotel booking service to bring you detailed information on 2,500 hotels and resorts across Thailand at the click of a mouse. Special promotions are highlighted. You can check out room availability and compare prices. What's more, if you book through us, you'll receive discounts of up to 75%!



You'll find everything from sumptuous five-star resorts to intimate boutique hotels to humble accommodations suitable for the most intrepid backpacker. You'll find brief overviews of properties as well as information on rooms and facilities. There are maps, photo galleries, and reviews by guests that actually stayed at them. And most important, the site is very easy to negotiate!

Unlike some on-line reservation systems, which require payment in full no matter how much or how early your bookings are made, with our partner, iDO24, just 10% to 30% is required to secure a room. The balance is due shortly prior to check-in. You can also check room availability without submitting your credit card details.

Bangkok's Top Six Hotels

The Thai capital is chock-a-block with fine hostelries. These six hotels are considered to be among Bangkok's best.

The Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok – formerly known as the Regent – has undergone a multi million dollar face lift. Located in the heart of the city's commercial district, it is set amid 10 acres of tropical gardens. It has one of the city's best Italian restaurants as well as one of its finest spas.

Situated in the heart of the Thai capital, the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok has one of the city's most convenient locations, close to both transport and shopping. There is an Italian restaurant, a tea room, a modern fitness centre, and a 23,000-square-foot spa.

Established in the 1860s, the Oriental Bangkok drips with Far Eastern nostalgia. A boat shuttles guests back and forth across the river so they can savour a tall cool one on the terrace as the sun sets over the Chao Phraya after luxuriating at the newly renovated spa, which is located in a traditional Thai style teak house. And don't forget high tea in the recently refurbished Author's Wing!

Arrival by helicopter or Rolls Royce? What a tough decision when you stay at the Peninsula Bangkok, which towers 39 stories over the Chao Phraya River. There are six restaurants, a new spa built in a three-story Thai villa, and a three-tiered pool. Vast computer records ensure that your every wish is their command.

The business friendly Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok is also a favourite with visiting heads of state. Two towers rise 16 and 25 floors above the river. It has Italian and Chinese restaurants, an award-winning spa, and in-house shops. Rooms features curtains made of Thai silk from Jim Thompson.

Named after the first Thai capital, the Sukhothai Bangkok is hidden away in the heart of the city. There are 146 rooms and 78 suites set amid four to nine-storey buildings. There is an 80-foot outdoor swimming pool, a Thai restaurant, an international eatery, and a spa offering massages by the pool.
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Pictured: the Author's Wing at the Oriental Bangkok has hosted the likes of Noel Coward and other literary greats.
Picture Credit: Oriental Bangkok, Thailand
Copyright: Michael Taylor

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Exploring Jewish Heritage in Style

The Portobello section of Dublin, Ireland, once boasted a thriving Jewish community. The Walworth Road Synagogue, which was located in the district, could accommodate up to 160 men and women. As Jews started moving to the suburbs, the synagogue gradually fell into disuse. By the mid-1970s, it closed its doors altogether, coming back to life in 1984, when it reopened as the Irish Jewish Museum. Its collection contains certificates, paintings, photographs, and testimonials together with a display about the commercial and social life of Ireland's Jewish community.

Constituting just one per cent of the population, most of the Jews in Uruguay live in the city of Montevideo. The city has a has a Jewish museum and documentation center, as well as a Holocaust memorial museum, which has been declared an historic national landmark. There are monuments to Golda Meir and Albert Einstein. Within the Jewish cemetery are monuments in memory of the victims of the Shoah, Israeli soldiers who fell in battle and victims of the terrorist attack on the AMIA building in Buenos Aires, Argentina. There are still a few faded remnants of its Jewish past in the neighborhood of Goes.

Jews had been coming to St. Petersburg, then capital of the Russian Empire, throughout the 18th century. During the 19th century, a small number of of them had evolved into a powerful and prosperous community. By the end of the 19th century, the city was one of the most important centers of Jewish life in the entire world. With the breakup of the Soviet Union, the religious and cultural life of the Jewish community of St Petersburg – known as Leningrad during the Soviet era – started returning to normal. As one of the world's most beautiful cities, it is home some significant Jewish heritage sites, including the Grand Choral Synagogue.

From Dublin to Montevideo to St Petersburg, Crystal Cruises is offering a series of cruise adventures next year that will focus on Jewish heritage. Travelers will make visits to a variety of destinations, where they can explore Judaic history and trace their roots. In addition to Israel, stops will include such familiar and unexpected places as Berlin, Germany; Mumbai, India;

Odessa, Ukraine; Rome, Italy; and Stockholm, Sweden.

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“Often, guests seek experiences that are not only historically significant, but personally relevant,” says John Stoll, director, land programmes. “It helps connect travelers to a foreign destination. Guests may be surprised at some cities that have a rich Jewish history and thriving modern Jewish culture.” Options in Jerusalem include the Jewish Quarter; the Western Wall, the holiest of Jewish sites; Yad Vashem, the Holocaust Martyrs’ and Heroes Remembrance Authority, dedicated to the history of Jews during the Holocaust period and other significant locations.

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Pictured: Stockholm Sweden

Picture Credit: Crystal Cruises

Copyright: Michael Taylor

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How to Match Sichuanese Cuisine with Fine Wine

Sichuan is home to one of China's legendary Eight Great Cuisines. Because of the province's heat and humidity, lots of innovative preservation methods were developed in the days before refrigeration and air conditioning. Included are drying, pickling, salting and smoking. Sichuanese cuisine is noted for its pungency and oiliness. Flavours range from sweet and spicy to hot and pungent. Then there is the liberal use and ma la peppers, a sort of numbing spice that doesn't have an adequate English translation. The unique taste sensation it causes in the mouth is practically indescribable. Sichuanese chefs also use lots of garlic, ginger, fragrant oils, and yuxiang, a type of fish sauce, in the preparation of their dishes. Some of the most popular items include Auntie Ma's tofu (or ma po tofu), hot and spicy hotpot, kung pao chicken, sichuanese style boiled fish, stewed carp with ham and hot and sweet sauce, and tea smoked duck.

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Of all of China's most popular cooking styles, Sichuanese cuisine is undoubtedly the most difficult to match with fine wines. But it can be done.“I believe that red and white wines can be paired with Chinese cuisine based on the same assumptions and notions that apply to Western food,” says Ricardo Jorge Pina, assistant F&B director at the Shangri-La Hotel, Chengdu, in China's Sichuan province.

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“Sichuanese cuisine is known for its strong flavors and spiciness, in particular the famed Sichuanese peppercorns, which do not leave much room for being paired with wines . . . All this richness can perhaps be complemented with a wine that should be low in alcohol content and with a hint of sweetness to balance the spiciness of the dish. Only this way will you be able to enjoy the wine without enhancing even more the spiciness of the food. For this I would recommend either a red wine like a Pinot Noir, which is softer in tannins, or a white wine in the semi-sweet range, either a Riesling or a Gewürztraminer – the choice is yours!”

What to Drink with What

These food and wine combinations were suggested by the Hong Kong Tourism Board: Hot and Spicy Hotpot – Fruity Pinot Noir from Australia, California, or New Zealand (red); or dry German whites wines or a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (white) Kung Pao Chicken – Pinot Noir (red) Sichuanese Style Boiled Fish – Pinot Noir (red) Stewed Carp with Ham and Hot and Sweet Sauce – Late Harvest (a dessert wine) or Botrytis Sweet Wine Tea Smoked Duck – Pinot Noir or Malbec (red)
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Pictured: Ma Po Tufu, at the Shangri-La Hotel, Chengdu, China
Photo Credit: Shangri-La Hotel, Chengdu, China

Copyright: Michael Taylor

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What Can the the Travel Industry Do to Fight Global Warming?

Non-governmental Organizations (NGOs) have a role to play in fighting global warming. Bodies representing the travel industry are no exception. According to Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA) CEO Greg Duffell, members of his body should lobby their governmental representatives in advance of next week’s COP15 climate change summit in Copenhagen, Denmark. The Kyoto Protocol to prevent climate change and global warming runs out in 2012. Governmental representatives from 170 countries around the world are expected at the Danish event. It is hoped that a Copenhagen Protocol can be reached.

“The travel and tourism industry must speak with one voice in this important issue,” Duffell says. “We must acknowledge our environmental and social responsibilities, commit to sustainable practices, and support every practical measure that seeks to reduce carbon emissions. But we also expect the government ministers attending the Copenhagen conference to treat travel and tourism as an equitable partner in this process.”

According to a press release issued by PATA, the organization supports the call for a standardized process of carbon calculation for each sector of travel and tourism. It is also continuing to monitor the destinations that are most at risk from the effects of climate change. "There is no doubt that travel and tourism stakeholders have developed a much more mature attitude and a much greater understanding since this debate began in earnest at the 1992 Earth Summit in Rio de Janeiro.” Duffell says. “I encourage all members to make use of the opportunities to contribute valid and pertinent comments via the conference website and the COP15 social media channels such as Facebook and Twitter. And it’s important that we involve employees at every level – this is not an issue for the boardroom alone.”

So just how serious is the threat? Some believe that it could prove catastrophic – if drastic action is not taken now. “Climate change is one of the single biggest threats to the world as we know it,” says the World Travel and Tourism Council (WTTC). “However, according to [a] report launched by the WTTC, immediate action can reduce current levels of green house gas emissions and redesign a sustainable global economy, at the same time as helping to minimize the threat of climate change.”

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According to the Davos Declaration, which was issued in 2007 in Davos, Switzerland, the tourism sector needs to “rapidly respond to climate change, within the evolving UN framework, and progressively reduce its Greenhouse Gas contribution if it is to grow in a sustainable manner.” To accomplish this, the sector needs to mitigate against GHC emissions, adapt to changing climate conditions, improve energy efficiency, and secure the financial resources needed to help poor regions and countries.

Pictured: Easy on the environment: Copenhagen, Denmark, is one of the world's most green friendly cites
Photo Credit: VisitDenmark
Copyright: Michael Taylor

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How to Match Shanghainese Food with Fine Wine

Shanghai is China's largest city. At the mouth of the Yangtze River, it is also the country's most important port. During the 1920s and 30s, it was one of the world's most cosmopolitan cities, referred to as the Paris of the East.

Interestingly, Shanghai does not really have a distinct cuisine of its own. Most of the dishes usually associated with this bustling metropolis are actually imports from nearby Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces. The cooking style of these two provinces is often collectively referred to as Jiangnan cuisine. Because this style of cooking is very popular in Shanghai, many restaurants serving it – especially those outside the mainland – often position themselves as Shanghainese.

Shanghainese cuisine tends to be heavier and oilier than Cantonese cuisine. Sugar and soy sauce are favoured condiments. Chicken, crab, eel, and fish are often soaked in alcoholic beverages and then quickly cooked or steamed – and sometimes even served raw! Such dishes are somewhat poetically referred to as “drunken chicken” or “drunken crabs” in English. Preserved vegetables and salted meats are other favoured ingredients.

Dim sum and noodles are popular. Indigenous varieties include thick noodles and that perennial favourite: xiao long bao, or steamed buns with savory stuffing. If Shanghai has a signature dish, it would have to be steamed hairy crab. It is usually served with a dipping sauce of vinegar, crushed garlic, and brown sugar.

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“Shanghai has been China’s most important port city, and this has allowed it to incorporate many regional and international ideas into its cuisine,” says Cheng Chi-keung, Chinese executive chef at the Portman Ritz-Carlton Shanghai. “In Shanghai , there is more dependence on soy sauce and a great deal more sugar is used. Stewing, braising, and frying are the most common forms of Shanghainese cooking. The slow 'red cooking' technique is unique to Shanghainese cuisine and has now spread to other parts of China. Rice is the staple here, and seafood is also very popular in this port city.”

What to Drink with What

These food and wine combinations were suggested by Cheng Chi-keung, Chinese executive chef at the Portman Ritz-Carlton, Shanghai: Braised Pork Ribs with Pine Seeds in Sweet and Sour Sauce – Torres Cabernet Sauvignon Mas Las Plana from Spain (red) Braised Prawns Head, Sweet and Sour Sauce Deep Fried Prawns and Tail - Cloudy Bay Chardonnay from New Zealand (white) Deep Fried Mandarin Fish in Sweet and Sour Sauce – Cloudy Bay Chardonnay from New Zealand (white)

These food and wine combinations were suggested by the Hong Kong Tourism Board: Duck Stuff with Eight Treasures – Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, or Merlot (red)Fresh Crab Claw Braised with Saffron Soup and Shark's Fin – Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand (white) Roasted Fish with Pine Nuts – Late Harvest (a Dessert Wine), Botrytis Sweet Wine, or Muscat Shrimp Satuteed with Longjing Tad – Sauvignon Blanc (white) Steamed Hairy Crab – a Vintage Brut
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Pictured: Braised Prawn's Head
Photo Credit: Portman Ritz-Carlton, Shangahi
Copyright: Michael Taylor

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Eight Wonders of the World

The ancient Greeks believed that there were Seven Wonders of the World. These included the Great Pyramid of Giza, the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, the Statue of Zeus at Olympia, the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus, the Mausoleum of Maussollos at Halicarnassus, the Colossus of Rhodes, and the Lighthouse of Alexandria. Not surprisingly, they were all located around the Mediterranean.

In 2001, the Swiss-based New7Wonders Foundation launched an initiative to select the New Seven Wonders of the World. Much to the annoyance of Egypt – home to the only surviving remnant from the original Wonders of the Ancient World – the Great Pyramid of Giza was in contention with such 20th century marvels as the Statue of Liberty in New York and the Sydney Opera House in Australia. The results, announced in the summer of 2007, were as follow: the Great Wall of China; Petra, an archaeological site in Jordan; Christ the Redeemer, a statue of Jesus Christ built atop Corcovado Mountain in the Brazilian city of Rio de Janeiro; Machu Picchu, the Lost City of the Incas, in Peru; Chichen Itza, a pre-Columbian architectural site in Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula; the Roman Colosseum, an amphitheater located in the heart of Rome, Italy; and the Taj Mahal, a mausoleum located in Agra, India, which was built by a Mughal emperor in memory of his favourite wife. The Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt was named an “honorary candidate,” bringing the total to eight.

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Continental Airlines has launched an on-line auction, allowing frequent flyers to bid their miles on a premium round-the-world trip, visiting the Eight Wonders of the World. “We are pleased to celebrate joining Star Alliance by bringing this unique auction package to our most loyal customers,” says Mark Bergsrud, Continental’s senior vice president of marketing programmes and distribution. “This is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.” The winning bidder and a companion will travel from their hometown to Continental’s Houston, Texas, hub at Bush Intercontinental Airport in the United States. From there, they will travel by business class on Continental and other Star Alliance airlines, making stops at Rio de Janeiro, Brazil; Rome, Italy; Delhi, India; Cairo, Egypt; Beijing, China; Mexico City, Mexico; and Lima, Peru. They will stay at Starwood Hotels and Resorts Worldwide properties and take private tours of each of the Eight Wonders. Bidding closes on 9 December 2009.

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Pictured: the ruins of Machu Picchu, Peru, are one of the Eight Wonders of the World
Copyright: Michael Taylor

How to Match Cantonese Cuisine with Fine Wine

I have never understood why – when I order a glass of red wine at some of Hong Kong's more stylish hotel dining rooms – my teacup is mysteriously lifted from my midst just as my wine arrives. Isn't tea, to Asian diners, what water is to Western diners? I've never had my water glass removed when the wine arrives at a Western restaurant. Well, now I know why – thanks to the Hong Kong Tourism Board.

“Most Cantonese like to drink tea while enjoying their meal,” the board's website informs. “Since the level of tannin in tea is similar to that of red wine, most tea lovers would find it easy to get used to full-bodied and strong red wine. However, if tea and red wine are drunk together during a meal, the mixture of tea with wine will make the flavour of both turn bitter.”
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Now who would have thought? Of China's Eight Great Cuisines, Cantonese food is the one that has been influenced the most by Western and other foreign cooking styles. It is also the one that has had the most influence on the ways that chefs in the other parts of the world cook. Stir frying, one of the key cooking techniques in Cantonese cookery, was unheard of in the West a few decades ago. It has now found favour around the world. Thanks to this culinary confluence, Cantonese cuisine is one of the easiest styles of Chinese cooking to match with Western wines.

What to Drink with What

Here is a selected list of food and wine combinations from the Hong Kong Tourism Board (abbreviated and modified). Baked Lobster with Cheese – un-oaked Pinot Noir, Gamey, Beaujolais (red); California Chardonnay, Australian Chardonnay, Bourgogne Blanc (white); Vintage Champagne; Italian Franciacorta Sparking Wine Barbecued Pigeon – any deluxe red wine or Fine Pinot Grigio, Gavi, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc (white) Braised Dried Abalone – Shiraz (red) Roasted Goose – without sour plum sauce: Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, or Australian Shiraz (red); with sour plum sauce: a full bodied red or Gewurtraminer (white) Roasted Suckling Pig – AOC Bordeaux, Bourgogne, Cotes de Rhone (red); Chablis Crand Cru, Loire Valley (white) Sweet and Sour Pork – Late Harvest (a dessert wine), Botrytis Sweet Wine, Muscat
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Pictured: Summer Palace at the Shangri-La, Guangzhou, China, serves Cantonese cuisine in sumptuous surroundings.Photo Credit: Shangri-La Guangzhou, China
Copyright: Michael Taylor

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Beijing Gives Shanghai the Mickey

Government officials in Hong Kong breathed a collective sigh of relief last week when they learned that the National Development and Reform Commission (NDRC) in Beijing had mandated an area of only 116 hectares for Shanghai Disneyland – a far cry from the 400 hectares that had been widely speculated on in the media. Does somebody up there like us?

When the proposal to build a Disneyland park in Shanghai was approved earlier this month, it was celebrated by the city's media. Speculation was rife that it would be built in stages, with the first stage covering a larger area than Hong Kong Disneyland. Additional phases would eventually turn it into one of the largest Disney parks anywhere, eventually outclassing even Disney World in Orlando, Florida, in the United States.

Shanghai's coup was Hong Kong's massive loss of face, with people here thinking that their park – already the smallest in the world – would be dwarfed by a massive new park in Shanghai. It was a major blow to the city's ego, and fears were expressed that it could hazardously affect the city's tourism industry. Why would anyone visit Hong Kong Disneyland when a substantially larger park was located just a few thousand kilometres to the north?

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Speculation has been rife as to why the central government has decided to give Shanghai what seems to be the Mickey. Was is to maintain confidence in Hong Kong? Was it to put a cap on Shanghai's overheated real estate market? Was it because of fears of putting too much strain on the city's overburdened infrastructure? Or was the park being looked upon as a sort of cultural Trojan Horse? Key scholars in China have recently voiced fears about the potential impact of Western culture on the country's youth. Perhaps a massive American style amusement park in Shanghai was too much for some officials to stomach.

Copyright: Michael Taylor

Pearl River Delta's Top Eateries

It was standing room only as the Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macau 2010 was previewed to the press at the Four Seasons Hotel yesterday. According to the guide, the hotel is the most comfortable in town, and two of its F&B outlets – Lung King Heen, which serves Cantonese cuisine, and Caprice, which serves French – received three stars, the guide's highest rating. The only other eatery in the Pearl River Delta to be awarded three stars was Robuchon a Galera at the Hotel Lisboa, which is located in the former Portuguese enclave, Macau, a 60 minutes' jet foil ride from Hong Kong.

Forty restaurants were dropped from the prestigious listing and 86 were added, bringing this year's total to 245 in Hong Kong and 53 in Macau. Nine received two stars and 39 one star. Included were 29 “simple shops” serving local specialties at affordable prices. At some of them, diners could enjoy gourmet meals for as little as HK$50 a head. Another 50 restaurants offer three-course gourmet meals for HK$300 a head or less. “Hong Kong has the cheapest starred restaurants in the world,” said Jean-Luc Naret, director of Michelin Guides. “You should be proud to live in Hong Kong. It is a great place for food.”

Last year's guide – the first to be published in Greater China – was generally panned by the local media, which accused it of being elitist. They also questioned the ability of European inspectors to pass judgment on Chinese cuisine. Still, the first edition sold 50,000 copies, exceeding expectations.

As photographers snapped photos and journalists took notes, the reporter to my right was hurriedly typing a live feed into her iPod. When it came time for questions, a reporter for one of Hong Kong's largest circulation Chinese language newspapers asked if the larger number of inexpensive eateries in this year's guide had been in response to accusations of elitism in last year's guide. “We don't lower our standards because of criticism,” Naret maintained. “We would lose our credibility if we did.”

The following restaurants received 3 stars:

Caprice Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong – French cuisine. Open kitchen, harbour views, produce imported direct from France. Lung King Heen Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong – Cantonese. Harbour views, classy interior, professional service, fresh ingredients. Robuchon a Galera Hotel Lisboa Macau – French. Contemporary Gallic cuisine in early 19th century surroundings.

The following restaurants in Hong Kong received two stars: Amber (French, Landmark Oriental Hotel), Fook Lam Moon (Cantonese, free-standing), L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon (French, the Landmark), Ming Court (Cantonese, Langham Place Hotel), Petrus (French, Island Shangri-La Hotel), Shang Palace (Cantonese, Kowloon Shangri-La Hotel), T'ang Court (Cantonese, Langham Hotel), Tim's Kitchen (Cantonese, free-standing). The following restaurant in Macau received two stars: Zi Yat Heen (Cantonese, Four Seasons Hotel).

How to Match Fine Wines with Cantonese Cuisine has been postponed until next week in order to bring you this news flash.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of the Four Seasons, Hong Kong
Pictured: Caprice, serving contemporary French cuisine at the Four Seasons, Hong Kong
Copyright: Michael Taylor
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Flying to India by Private Jet

As the world's second most populous country, India has a civilization dating back to 3,200 BC, when the religion of Hinduism was founded. Several other religions – from Buddhism and Christianity to Jainism, Judaism, Islam, Sikhism, and Zoroastrianism - now coexist in the land, which is noted for its geographical as well as its cultural and religious diversity. To the north, it is bordered by the Himalayas, the world's highest mountain chain. To the south there are tropical rain forests, broad plateaus, sandy deserts, and sandy beaches. India's immense culinary diversity is also the stuff of legend.

Delhi is the country's capital. An exotic mixture of old and new, it is a multi-layered city, containing the remnants of a succession of empires. The Mogul city of Agra is best known for the Taj Mahal. Built in the 17th century, it is, perhaps, mankind's most poignant and poetic tribute to love. The historic city of Udaipur is flush with heritage sites of stunning beauty. And then there is the pink city of Jaipur, home to several massive forts and other architectural wonders. The list goes on and on.



The Diethelm Travel Group in Bangkok, Thailand, is launching a series of exclusive tours for those with deep pockets. The first - The Red Carpet India Tour – will take a handful of travelers on an exclusive tour of India by private jet. Reserved for the privileged few, Diethelm’s Red Carpet India Tour will fly participants by private Cessna Citation X Jet to four incredible Indian destinations – direct from Bangkok.

With more than 50 years of tour operating experience in exotic destinations, Diethelm Travel has left nothing to chance. From the moment guests board their jet in Bangkok, they will receive red carpet treatment throughout six days of magical sights and imperial luxury. The trip includes visits to Delhi, Agra, Udaipur, and Jaipur. “There is a growing demand for this type of unique holiday, and we at Diethelm - with our excellent network of offices and partners – are in a unique position to create fabulous packages in Asia,” says John Watson, CEO of Diethelm Travel Group. “This niche market group is very focused on quality of experience, and we have encapsulated superb hotels and a creative itinerary into a tour that we believe will be of great interest to both Thais and expats.” The price of US$17,920 per person based on six people traveling together and sharing twin or double rooms.

Pictured: the Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Copyiright: Michael Taylor

Fine Wines and Chinese Cuisine - Three Sure Bets

One of the challenges of pairing fine wines with Chinese cuisine is that unless you are dining alone, several dishes will be served, and they can range from sweet and sour to pungent and savoury to spicy and oily. Since dishes arrive one by one, one approach is to break open a new bottle with each course. Another is to choose a wine that is flexible enough to be paired with different flavours. Three of the safest bets would be an un-oaked Chardonnay, a medium dry to slightly sweet Riesling, and a full-bodied Merlot - with just the right amount of acid.

For spicy dishes, you might want to try a Gewurtraminer or a Zinfandel. A red Bourdeaux pairs well with oily dishes since the tannin in the wine cuts the grease. And Pinot Noir goes well with dishes that contain fruit. “Chinese food has a very wide range of flavours and styles, with a strong influence according to the province it originates in and its culture and people,” says Pierre Legrandois, sommelier at the Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong. “Generally speaking, the wine - either white or red - should have a strong personality, but it doesn’t necessary need to be a blockbuster. The most common grape variety used to match Chinese food is usually Riesling, which has almost become a classic. I personally like wines from Austria such as Gruner Veltliner or a good vintage Champagne Rose that contains richness and complexity with elegance. That pairs very well overall with Chinese food.”

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Jason Shi, resident sommelier at the China World Hotel in Beijing, believes that pairing wines with food is a bit like playing matchmaker, and matching Chinese food with Western wines is a bit like creating an interracial marriage. “No matter if the marriage is between Chinese and Chinese or Chinese and a foreigner, if the advantages outweigh the disadvantages, no big conflicts will arise and the overall harmony can result in a happy marriage,” he says.

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We continue our guide to matching fines wines with Chinese cuisine Friday after taking a break tomorrow to report on Flying to India by Private Jet.

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Pictured: Man Wah, the Chinese restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong
Photo Credit: Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong
Copyright: Michael Taylor

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From Los Angeles to New York - the Long Way

Have you ever sat on the sofa watching The Amazing Race and said, "I could do that!"? Well, here is your chance! For US$9,900 per person, 25 couples will compete in the 6th annual three-week international travel adventure competition, known as The Global Scavenger Hunt. They will embark from Los Angeles on 9 April 2010 and head for New York. But instead of traveling East, they will head West, visiting at least 10 nations while circumnavigating the globe. Participants will not be informed ahead of time what the actual stops will be.

"We had some good chuckles at the World Travel Market in London last week," says Event Director William D. Chalmers. "The challenge has been made that's for sure. Travel agents always claim that they are the best travelers, but someone in London observed that they were more a kin to high school guidance counselors – that they are good at telling you where to go, but have never personally been there themselves! We've had some wonderful travel writers compete in previous events thinking they were the great travelers – but this is no [familiarization] trip, no press junket. The Global Scavenger Hunt is a serious competition, and they all seemed to wilt under the marathon-like pressure of actually having to do competition scavenges themselves."

The 6th annual Global Scavenger Hunt is for Type-A globetrotters craving adventure, competition, and world-class fun – all while serving as a roaming travel ambassador.The Global Scavenger Hunt is limited to 25 two-person teams (singles may apply). The entry fee of US$9,900 per person covers all international airfares, 23 nights in first class hotels, and about 40% of meals. Teams are interviewed for suitability. Visit and apply online at GlobalScavengerHunt.com.

Pictured: the Manhattan skyline
Photo Credit: nycgo.com
Copyright: Michael Taylor

How to Match Chinese Food with Western Wine

There is a common perception among foodies that fine wines and Chinese food don't mix. While it is true that at most meals the Chinese drink one of the country's many different types of tea, many Chinese people do frequently like to imbibe alcoholic beverages with their meals – especially when dining with friends and at banquets. And that doesn't just mean beer.

The Chinese have, in fact, been drinking wine with their meals for centuries. But not the type made from grapes. Chinese wines have traditionally been made from grains rather than grapes. They are clear, and they have very high levels of alcohol. I once sampled one of these white “wines” at a banquet held for visiting journalists in Qingdao, a coastal city in Shandong Province. If I remember correctly, it was 70 proof!

The first challenge of matching Western wines with Chinese dishes is that not much research has gone into the topic. In the West, wine aficionados have been experimenting with food and wine matching for centuries. In China, this is an entirely new concept.

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The next challenge is that not much thought has always been given when putting together restaurant wine lists. In a country where wine drinking is in its infancy, wine distributors can easily persuade F&B managers to buy expensive wines that don't necessarily complement what is on the menu. For them, it is a simple issue of selling the most expensive wines in order to bolster the bottom line.

Then there is the issue of “face”. Hosts eager to show off at banquets want to serve wines with “clout”. So they order expensive Burgundies and costly Bordeaux. Unfortunately, these wines cannot stand up to the heavily spiced dishes of Sichuan and Hunan. And they can overwhelm the delicately flavoured specialties of Guangdong and Fuijian.

As with so many trends in Greater China, matching Western wines with Chinese dishes got its start in cosmopolitan Hong Kong. I first heard about the concept at a wine tasting hosted by the trade commissioner of a foreign consulate several years back. Learning that I was a journalist, a wine enthusiast invited me into a private dining room, where a Chinese banquet was underway. There were several bottles of wine in the middle of the table. The guests all had little scorecards.

They were evaluating the different wines against the various dishes on the menu.

“People think that you can't match Western wines with Chinese food, but we are determined to prove that you can,” the enthusiast said. He then informed me that they had not been able to reach a consensus when it came to Peking duck. “Opinion is divided,” he said. “Would you care to break the tie?”

Tomorrow I will take a break from pairing fine wines with Chinese cuisine to report on the Global Scavenger Hunt. More on matching Western wines with Chinese food on Wednesday.

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Pictured: Yi Yang, the Chinese restaurant serving fine Cantonese cuisine at the Mandarin Oriental, Sanya, China
Photo Credit: Mandarin Oriental, Sanya, China
Copyright: Michael Taylor

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Our Culinary Journey Ends - But Not Quite!

After successfully locating restaurants serving 7 of China's Eight Great Cuisines, I hit a roadblock. There didn't seem to be any restaurants in Shenzhen serving dishes from the province of Fujian. I managed to track down a few dimly lit fast food shops, but none looked very appealing. I didn't want to try them, let alone recommend them to others.

I enlisted the help of the concierge at a 5-star hotel, and he offered to help me locate one. He came back a couple of hours later with the address written in Chinese. It was on the other side of town, and it took me more than an hour to get there. When I arrived at the address, however, there was nothing more than a boarded up storefront. Asking a security guard at the building next door, I learned that the restaurant had closed down several years earlier. I had lunch at a Hunanese restaurant instead.

Disappointed, I decided to head back to Hong Kong. Before leaving Shenzhen, however, I had a massage. Then I stopped for a snack at my favourite noodle and dumpling shop, which is located next door. I had been going there for more than 2 years, but I had never bothered to determine what type of food they served. All I knew was that it was yummy – and very, very cheap! As I tucked into my steamed dumplings, I decided to ask the owner's wife where they were from. “Fujian Province,” she declared proudly. “Really?” I asked. “What kind of food is this?” When she replied that it was typical Fujian food, I knew that I had successfully – and accidentally – reached my destination. My culinary tour of China – all within the city limits of Shenzhen – was complete.



Because of its coastal location, Fujian cuisine, known as Min Cai (闽菜) in Mandarin, is strong on seafood. It is also similar to Chiu Chow cuisine, as Chiu Chow is located in northern Guangdong, near the Fujian border. Flavours range from sweet and sour to salty and savory. “Min cuisine is characterized by its beautiful presentation and fresh taste,” says Ng Wing-kun, executive Chinese chef at the Futian Shangri-La, Shenzhen, China..

For some strange reason, restaurants serving this type of cuisine are in short supply in Shenzhen. There are, however, a handful of fast food outlets - such as the one I frequent - serving authentic Fujian style dumplings and noodles at rock bottom prices.

See Blogger's Choice Michael Taylor's favourite Fujian style snack shop in Shenzhen.

Next Week: How to Match Chinese Food with Western Wine

Pictured: Summer Palace at the Shangri-La Hotel, Fuzhou, China, serves Cantonese and Fujian specialities.
Photo Credit: Courtesy of the Shangri-La Hotel, Fuzhou, China
Copyright: Michael Taylor
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Shandong Cuisine

My desire to eat my way around China, exploring its Eight Great Cuisines, began several years ago during a press trip to Shandong Province. Starting in the provincial capital of Jinan, we worked our ways to the coastal city of Qingdao, making several stops along the way. Every noon and evening, we would be hosted by local officials, and they were all eager to show off their towns' specialties. I've been on many such junkets over the years, but I haven't always enjoyed the food as much as I did on that trip.

It was during a banquet in the city of Zibo – the legendary birthplace of soccer – that I commented to the mayor, who was sitting next to me, that the roast duck there was much better than the the Peking duck I had sampled in Beijing a few weeks earlier. I added that overall I found the food in Shandong among the best in China – and very suitable to Western tastes.

The mayor beamed and explained that Shandong Province was home to one of the country's “Eight Great Cuisines”. That was first time I ever heard the term. He then explained to me the origins of Peking duck.

“Peking duck originates in Shandong,” the mayor said. “Many chefs from Shandong went to Beijing and opened restaurants serving roast duck. Gradually it came to be known Peking duck.” And now it is generally recognized as China's signature dish.



As the birthplace of some of China’s most famous ancient scholars – Confucius is the province’s best known native son – Shandong is also home to one of the country’s most highly regarded cuisines. Known in Mandarin as Lu Cai (鲁菜), Shandong cuisine is lighter, crisper, tenderer, and not as oily as some of the other styles of Chinese cookery. Many of the dishes generally associated with Beijing cuisine actually have their origins in Shandong Province.

“Lu Cuisine is fresh, delicate, and clean-tasting, often featuring seafood,” says Ng Wing-kun, executive Chinese chef at the Futian Shangri-La, Shenzhen, China. “Special attention is focused on soups, which are categorized into two types: clear broths and milky broths.”

My culinary tour of China is coming to a close. Tomorrow I explain how my quest to track down restaurants serving all 8 of China's Eight Great Cuisines in Shenzhen nearly came to a screeching halt.

See Blogger's Choice for Michael Taylor's favourite Anhui restaurant in Shenzhen.

Pictured: Shang Palace at the Shangri-La, Qingdao, in Shandong Province, China, serves regional Chinese dishes.
Copyright: Michael Taylor
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Anhui Cuisine

Known as Hui Cai (徽菜) in Mandarin, Anhui cuisine is perhaps one of China’s best kept culinary secrets. The flavours are rich and subtle, thanks to the careful use to hams and sugared candies to enrich and deepen flavours. Wild herbs – from both the land and the sea – are frequently used. It is similar in style to Jiangsu cuisine.

Anhui cuisine is based on the cooking styles of of the Huangshan Mountains. Soft shelled turtles, stone frogs, bamboo shoots, and dried mushrooms are frequently used. Braising and stewing are the usual cooking methods. One of the most popular dishes is Li Hongzhang stew, named after a top official in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).



“Hui cuisine is characterized by the use of simple ingredients,” says Ng Wing-kun, executive Chinese chef at the Futian Shangri-La, Shenzhen, China. “One of the key elements is the control of the cooking flame, with an emphasis on colour and bringing out the flavors of the ingredients.”

My culinary tour of China is coming to a close. Tomorrow I explain how I came up with this topic in the first place. And Friday, I explain how my quest to track down restaurants serving all 8 of China's Eight Great Cuisines in Shenzhen nearly came to a screeching halt.

See Blogger's Choice for Michael Taylor's favourite Anhui restaurant in Shenzhen.
Copyright: Michael Taylor
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Zhejiang Cuisine

If Suzhou is known for classical gardens, canals, fine silks, and beautiful women, Hangzhou has a different set of attributes. With West Lake at its heart and surrounded by mountains on three sides, it embodies the very essence of a traditional Chinese landscape painting. Pagodas and temples dot the landscape.

Marco Polo was so enchanted by the place when he visited it in the 13th century that he described it as “beyond dispute, the finest and noblest [city] in the world”.

And then there is the food. Zhejiang cuisine, known as Zhe Cai (浙菜) in Mandarin, draws on the cooking styles of Hangzhou, Ningbo and Shaoxing. Bamboo shoots, poultry, and fresh water fish are favoured ingredients. There are many types of both hot and cold dim sum. Some of the most popular dishes include dong po pork, beggar's chicken, and West Lake fish cooked in vinegar. Flavours tend to be savory.

“Zhe cuisine is fragrant, crispy and fresh,” says Ng Wing-kun, executive Chinese chef at the Futian Shangri-La, Shenzhen, China. “Fish and prawns are favoured.”

The cuisines of Zhejiang and Jiangsu provinces are often lumped together as Jiangnan (江南) Cuisine. This appellation is also sometimes used to include the cooking styles of the other major cities in the region: Changzhou, Nanjing, Ningbo, Shanghai, Shaoxing, and Wuxi.

Jiangnan cuisine is very popular in Shanghai, and eateries outside the mainland serving it often position themselves as Shanghainese restaurants. This probably has more to do with the city's fame than anything else.



Among food experts, however, Shanghainese food – while very, very tasty! – was always considered to be rather unpretentious and – dare we say it? - “working class”. (At least that was how a five-star chef I interviewed in Shanghai a few years back put it.) So Shanghainese cuisine doesn't rank among China's Eight Great Cuisines. The same holds, interestingly enough, for the nation's capital, Beijing.

See Blogger's Choice for Michael Taylor's favourite Zhejiang restaurant in Shenzhen

Pictured: West Lake at twilight, Hangzhou, China
Photo: courtesy of the Shangri-La Hotel, Hangzhou, China
Copyright Michael Taylor
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Jiangsu Cuisine

Jiangnan refers to the region just south of the lower reaches of China's legendary Yangtze River. It includes the northern parts of Jiangxi and Zhejiang provinces and the southern parts of Anhui and Jiangsu provinces. Important cities include Changzhou, Nanjing, Ningbo, Shanghai, Shaoxing, and Wuxi – as well as the legendary twin cities of Suzhou and Hangzhou, reputedly the loveliest cities in all China. Suzhou is located in Jiangsu Province, Hangzhou in Zhejiang Province.

According to an old Chinese saying, there is heaven above and the cities of Suzhou and Hangzhou below (上有天堂，下有苏杭). Something is lost in the translation, of course, because in Chinese this saying forms a rhyming couplet, and there is no way to do that poetic justice in English. But you get the idea. Suzhou and Hangzhou are considered to be as close to heaven as you can get on earth.

Suzhou is known for many things. There are classical gardens, which are thought of as a poetic mix of natural and man-made elements, creating a restful sense of peace and tranquility. It is also known for the canals that crisscross the landscape. Then there are the fine silks and the beautiful women. According to legend, they are the comeliest in the country. And finally comes the food of Jiangsu province, considered to rank among China's Eight Great Cuisines. Jiangsu cuisine draws on the cooking styles of Nanjing, Suzhou, and Wuxi. It is known as Yang Cai (扬菜), Huaiyang Cai (淮揚菜), or Su Cai (苏菜) in Mandarin.

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Braising and stewing are the primary cooking techniques. Lion's head – ground meat in the shape of a lion's head – is one of the most popular dishes. Crab powder enhances the taste. There are various interpretations of the dish, but the two most popular are braised in a clear soup or red-cooked in a dense soup. I prefer the latter.

“The use of fresh ingredients is a key element in Yang cuisine,” says Ng Wing-kun, executive Chinese chef at the Futian Shangri-La, Shenzhen, China. “Special attention is paid to the presentation of the dish – especially in terms of colour and shape.”

See Blogger's Choice for Michael Taylor's favourite Jiangsu restaurant in Shenzhen

Pictured: Suzhou is criss-crossed by canals
Photo Credit: courtesy of the Shangri-La Hotel, Suzhou, China jiang Cuisine
Copyright: Michael Taylor

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Greater China's Best Hotels

Hong Kong's Big Four – the Mandarin Oriental, the Landmark Mandarin Oriental, The Peninsula, and the Four Seasons – have had their status as the most luxurious hostelries in town reaffirmed. All of them maintained their 5-star ratings in the 2010 Forbes Travel Guide hotel and spa awards, which were announced Tuesday.

“The Forbes Travel Guide is one of the most respected publications in the travel industry, and to have gained 5 stars for 2 consecutive years is testament to the dedication, hard work, and effort made by our 850 colleagues every day to ensure that our guests receive the quality and service for which Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, is renowned,” says Jonas Schuermann, general manager of the hotel.

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In Macau, which is a 1 hour jet foil ride away, the Wynn Macau also retained its 5-star ranking. The Altira, which used to be called the Crown, was elevated from 4 to 5 stars. No hotels in Beijing earned 5 stars, and no other cities in Greater China were included in the survey. “We are delighted to receive these highly sought-after awards for the second year running, and they are a testament to the exceptional service delivered by my Wynn Macau colleagues," says Ian Michael Coughlan, president of the hotel.

According to Rainy Chan, general manager of The Peninsula Hong Kong, staff training is the key to the hotel's continued success. “You can buy the best hardware available and hire good people for your hotel, but it is how you make your good people 'great' that is important,” she says “The staff are the soul of our hotels, and I believe investing in training is the best way forward to long-term success.”

Five hotels in Hong Kong retained their 4-star status. Included were the Conrad Hong Kong, the Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, the InterContinental Hong Kong, the Kowloon Shangri-La, and the Island Shangri-La.

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In Macau, the newly opened Four Seasons Hotel Macau received 4 stars. It was also retained by the Grand Lapa Hotel Macau, which was previously known as the Mandarin Oriental Macau, the MGM Grand Macau, and the Sands Macau.

In Beijing, Aman at Summer Palace and The Regent, Beijing, received 4 stars for the first time. The Grand Hyatt, the Raffles, the St. Regis, the Shangri-La, and The Peninsula all had their 5-star rating reaffirmed.

This year is the first edition of the former Mobil Travel Guide awards since the brand's transfer from Mobil to Forbes, which was recently announced. The list has defined the industry’s highest standard for excellence in hospitality for more than 50 years.

The Pearl River Delta's Top Six Hotels

The Altira Macau, formerly known as the Crown Macau, is located on the island of Taipa in Macau. As the tallest building on the island, it offers breathtaking views of the Macau peninsula. There are 216 guest rooms, including 24 suites and 8 villas, several F&B outlets, a spa, a private club, casinos, and other facilities.

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The Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong is located at the international finance centre in Central on Hong Kong Island. Near the waterfront, it affords stunning views of Victoria Harbour and the Kowloon Peninsula beyond. There are 399 guest rooms, including 54 suites, 5 F&B outlets, a spa, and other facilities.

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The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, is located in the heart of Central on Hong Kong Island. It has the intimacy of a very high end boutique hotel. There are 133 guest rooms and suites, 2 F&B outlets, a spa, and other facilities.

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The Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, occupies a full city block in the heart of Central on Hong Kong Island. Since it opened in 1963, it has been widely recognized as one of the world's premier hotels. There are 502 guest rooms and suites, 10 F&B outlets, a spa, and other facilities.

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The Peninsula Hong Kong occupies a full city block in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui on the Kowloon Peninsula. Hong Kong's 1st hotel. the Penn, as it is known by loyal guests, has been associated with style, fine dining, and attention to detail for 3 generations. There are 300 guest rooms and suites, 9 F&B outlets, and a spa, among other facilities.

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The Wynn Macau is located on the Macau Peninsula. Unlike many hotels with casinos, this one has picture windows in most public areas with views of lovely landscaped gardens. There are 600 guest rooms, including 120 one-bedroom suites and 20 two-bedroom suites, 7 F&B outlets, a spa, and casinos, among other facilities.

My culinary journey around China continues Monday after taking this 2-day detour to report on

Greater China's Top Spas and Best Hotels.

Pictured: the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong takes pride of place in Central, Hong Kong
Copyright: Michael Taylor

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Greater China's Top Spas

Hong Kong has long been known as a Shopper's Paradise. It has great Chinese restaurants, a spectacular harbour, and a well-deserved reputation for having some of the world's most luxurious hotels. But spas? They're not the 1st thing that generally comes to mind when people think of Greater China's most dynamic city.

The same can be said about Macau, just a 1 hour's jet foil ride away. Mention the former Portuguese enclave, and most people will think of gambling. A few might think of heritage architecture or baroque churches. But spas? Not likely.

The 2010 Forbes Travel Guide hotel and spa award winners were announced Tuesday, and – surprisingly enough – 5 spas in the 2 cities were awarded 5 stars. The Mandarin Spa and The Peninsula Spa by ESPA retained their 5-star status. The Oriental Spa at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental moved up from 4 to 5 stars. Two other spas, Plateau Spa and The Spa at Four Seasons Hong Kong, retained their 4 star status.

In Macau, Spa at Wynn Macau retained its 5 stars. The Spa at Altira moved up from 4 to 5 stars. The Spa at The Four Seasons Macau earned its 1st 4 stars. Six Senses Spa at the MGM Grand Macau and V Spa at The Venetian Macao all retained their 4 star ranking.

In Beijing, the only other city in Greater China surveyed for the ranking, 4 stars were awarded to The Spa at Ritz-Carlton, Spa at Aman Resort at Summer Palace and The Peninsula Spa.

A total of 18 spas were awarded 5-star status worldwide. All of the rest were in the United States. Another 100 spas received 4-star ratings. Until 2008, guides were limited to the United States and Canada. In that year, the 1st 2 international editions – 1 for Beijing and another for Hong Kong and Macau – were launched. More international destinations are expected to added in the years to come. Properties are inspected without advance warning. There are 2 types of inspections: facility inspections and service evaluations. Facility inspectors rate spas on cleanliness, physical condition, and location. Those spas passing the 1st inspection are evaluated a 2nd time by an anonymous inspector, whose evaluation is based on more than 500 service standards.

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The Forbes Travel Guide was formerly known as the Mobil Travel Guide. The transition was announced recently in the Accidental Travel Writer. The list has a history of more than 50 years.

My culinary journey around China continues next week following this brief 2 day detour to report on Greater China's Top Spas and Best Hotels.

Pictured: the Spa at Wynn Macau has earned a Forbes 5 Star rating for two years running
Copyright: Michael Taylor

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Chairman Mao's Favourite

Next to Cantonese cuisine, the two most widely known styles of Chinese cooking outside the mainland are Sichuanese, known in Mandarin as Chuan Cai (川菜), and Hunanese, known as Xiang Cai (湘菜). The name is derived from the Xiang River, which flows through the province.

Shenzhen is awash with restaurants serving dishes from both provinces. Both cuisines are fiery, both have strong flavours, and both can be rather oily so it is recommended to request less oil when ordering.

The peppers favoured by Sichuanese chefs differ markedly in taste from those used in Hunanese fare. Their unique numbing quality, known in Mandarin as ma la (麻辣), is so distinct that there is no English translation for the term. The sensation it causes in the mouth is practically impossible to describe.

“Chuan cuisine features ma la and the generous use of fragrant oils,” says Ng Wing-kun, executive Chinese chef at the Futian Shangri-La, Shenzhen, China. “Condiments such as chili peppers, black pepper, huajiao （花椒）and ginger are often used to enrich the taste. As for Xiang cuisine, it is made using a wide variety of ingredients, often featuring smoked meats and spicy chilies. The use of oil is generous and the colours are vibrant.”

Curing, simmering, steaming, and stewing are the main cooking methods used by Hunanese chefs. Popular dishes include Dong'an chicken, orange beef, and spicy frog's legs. Chairman Mao was born in Hunan Province. Interestingly, many peasant uprisings in China's long and tumultuous history broke out in the region. Mao once commented that this was because of the spicy food that the people there ate.


Tomorrow and Friday I make a brief detour from my culinary journey around China to report on Greater China's top spas and hotels. Our culinary tour resumes next week.

See Blogger's Choice (below) for one of Michael Taylor's favourite Hunanese restaurants in Shenzhen.

Pictured: Le Chinois at the Pullman Sanya Yalong Bay on Hainan Island, China, serves regional Chinese cuisine.
Coming Thursday: Greater China's Top Spas
Copyright: Michael Taylor
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Some Like It Hot!

Located in Sichuan Province, the city of Chongqing became a provincial level municipality – one of only four in the country – in 1997. Its cuisine – which is highly spiced and strongly flavoured – would best be described as a subcategory of Sichuanese cuisine.

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Popular Chongqing dishes include twice-cooked pork, Auntie Ma's tofu and gung pao chicken. All three have gained favour at Chinese restaurants around the globe.

But the city's signature dish is Hot Pot. Originally a seasonal dish, it was served in winter to protect people against the low temperatures and strong winds that turn the city of Chongqing – blisteringly hot and sickeningly humid much of the year – into a temporary deep freeze. With the arrival of air conditioning, hot pot can now be enjoyed all year round.

With hot pot, diners sit around a table, which has a pot in the middle. The pot, which sits atop a burner, is filled with broth. There are three basic types: red, which is spicy; bone, which is not; and Mandarin duck, which is sometimes called double cooked soup. The amount of spiciness can be adjusted to suit the preferences of diners. Servers generally ask if you want it “big, medium or small " hot.

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While diners are waiting for the soup come to a boil, they order platters of uncooked fish, meat, bean curd, vegetables, and other delicacies. They then walk over to a buffet-like table, where they create a personalized dipping sauce from the assembled ingredients. When the soup comes to a boil, they start tossing things into the pot, extracting them when they are cooked and dipping them into their sauce. The best part of hot pot, of course, is not the food. It's the conviviality that goes with it.

Pictured: the Emerald Sea Chinese restaurant at the InterContinental Chongqing, China, serves Sichuanesse and Cantonese dishes
Copyright: Michael Taylor

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Sichuanese Cuisine

Sichuan Province is home to one of China's most widely respected
cuisines. While not as popular outside the country as Cantonese cooking, inside the country it is highly regarded. Some would argue that it rivals Cantonese food as the Middle Kingstom's top culinary style.

In sharp contrast to Cantonese cuisine, which features fresh ingredients and subtlty enhanced natural flavours, Sichuanese cuisine is strongly flavoured and highly spiced.

Located in Southwestern China, Sichuan Province is hot and humid much of the year. Before the introduction of refrigeration and air conditioning, food preservation was a major issue. Innovative methods such as drying, pickling, salting and smoking were developed to preserve foods. These techniques also significantly enhanced their flavours.

There are nearly 40 different cooking methods in the province, with ingredients running from chili peppers and garlic to fermented black beans, ginger, scallions, sesame, soy sauce, and wine. What sets Sichuanese cuisine apart from Hunanese, which is also noted for its spiciness, is the liberal use of a numbing pepper called ma la (麻辣). The sensory sensation this pepper creates in the mouth is difficult to describe. There is no adequate translation for the term in English.

Many restaurants purporting to serve Sichuanese cuisine outside mainland China do not have access to ma la peppers. As a result, the food – while often very, very tasty – is not really authentic.

Sichuanese restaurants are scattered all over Shenzhen. It is arguably the city's most popular cooking style. While some of the other regional cuisines were difficult to track down, with Sichuanese cuisine, there was a spoil of riches. With one or more outlets on practically every block, the question here was not, "Where can I find one?" It was more an issue of, “Which one is the absolute best Sichuanese restaurant in town?"



I had a secret weapon: friends from Sichuan, and one of them was a chef. I asked him to recommend the city's top (but not, necessarily, most expensive!) Sichuanese restaurant and guide me through the menu. He did, and he didn't let me down.

See Blogger's Choice for Michael Taylor's absolute favourite Sichuanese eatery (and surely everyone else's!) in the city of Shenzhen.

Pictured: Shang Palace at the Shangri-La, Chengdu, China, features Sichuanese and Cantonese cuisines.
Copyright: Michael Taylor
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